Same-Day Stove, Range, Oven Repair
in Houston, TX

• Oven not heating

  When an oven won't heat, the part that makes the heat has usually failed. On electric ovens it's most often the bake element — you can sometimes see a break or blister in it. On gas ovens it's typically the igniter, which weakens over time until it can't open the gas valve. We test the element or igniter and the safety valve to confirm the real cause before replacing anything. These are common parts we carry, so most no-heat ovens are fixed the same visit.
• Uneven baking

  If one side of a tray browns while the other stays pale, the oven isn't holding steady, even heat. A weak bake or broil element, a failed convection fan, or a temperature sensor that's drifted are the usual reasons. Sometimes it's just the sensor reading wrong, so the oven thinks it's hotter than it is. We check the elements, the fan, and the sensor calibration, because uneven baking is usually a small part, not a whole new oven.
• Oven not turning on

  When the oven won't power up at all, we start with the supply — the breaker and the outlet — because a dead oven sometimes just lost power on one leg. From there the usual suspects are the control board, the thermal fuse, or the door lock on self-cleaning models. A tripped thermal fuse often points back to a past overheat. We work through these in order so you're not replacing a control board when the fix was smaller.
• Wrong temperature

  An oven that runs hot or cold usually has a temperature sensor or thermostat that's drifted out of spec. The oven still heats, it just can't hit the number you set — which quietly ruins baking. On some models it's a calibration issue we can correct; on others the sensor needs replacing. We measure the actual temperature against the setting to see how far off it is, then fix the cause so your recipes come out right again.
• Burners not working

  When a cooktop burner won't work, the cause depends on the type. On electric coil ranges it's often the burner element or the socket it plugs into. On smooth-top ranges it can be the element or the control switch. On gas ranges a dead burner usually means a clogged port or a faulty spark igniter. We test the burner and its switch or igniter to find the exact fault, and most burner parts are common enough to carry for a same-day fix.
• Clicking, no flame

  A gas burner that clicks but won't light usually has a spark, just no ignition. The most common reasons are a burner cap that's out of place, moisture or food debris in the igniter port, or a worn spark electrode. Sometimes it's simply a clogged burner that needs clearing. We check the igniter, the port, and the gas flow to get a clean, reliable light — and because it involves gas, it's worth having done right rather than guessing.
• Gas not igniting

  When a gas oven or burner won't ignite at all, it's usually the igniter, the safety valve, or the gas supply itself. A weak oven igniter is the most common — it has to glow hot enough to open the valve, and as it ages it can't. Because this involves gas and a safety valve, it's not something to test by trial and error. We diagnose it properly with the right tools, and our techs handle gas ranges every day, so it's done safely.
• Burning smell

  A burning smell from a range depends on what you're smelling. A new oven often burns off manufacturing residue the first few uses — that fades on its own. But an electrical or plastic burning smell can mean scorched wiring or a failing element, and on gas models any smell of gas itself needs immediate attention. If it's an electrical or gas odor, turn the appliance off and call us — that's the one we treat with real urgency.

Gas burners and oven elements aren't DIY territory — igniters, valves, and thermostats need proper testing to be safe. Our techs handle both gas and electric ranges every day, so dinner plans don't have to wait for a new stove.